Enjoying Holiday Traditions in Barcelona
- Elizabeth Pinkerton
- Dec 19, 2024
- 4 min read
Updated: Feb 24
Take twelve grapes, some poop, and a log and you have the makings of some of Barcelona’s beloved holiday traditions. Yes, the second item is not a typo. I actually had trouble bringing myself to write that word but you really can’t talk about the Catalan holiday season without talking about poop.
Meet Caganer, The Impish Nativity Pooper
Miniature models of Bethlehem (Belénes) are prevalent throughout Spain during the holiday season. Constructed in homes, storefronts, and other public places, they can include tiny trees, waterways, and windmills. Christmas markets offer charming hand-painted miniatures to allow for continued customization and expansion of these elaborate nativity scenes.
However, only in Catalonia do the nativity scenes feature the caganer peeking out of a corner. The caganer (literally ‘the defecator’) is dressed in traditional Catalan garb including a red cap, white shirt, and boots, He sits in a squatted position, heeding the call of nature.
The origin of the caganer is not completely clear but it dates back at least a few centuries. Some sources say that the caganer was related to a fertilization ritual. Other sources say that its inclusion in nativity scenes represents the realities of everyday life - even amidst the sacred.
Caganers of every size can be found throughout Barcelona during the holiday season. And friends and family can gift one another celebrity versions of the caganer depicting politicians, famous athletes, and other well-known people.
At first, it was hard to wrap my head around this unique custom at first. Now I embrace it as another charming and quirky aspect of living in Barcelona.
Speaking of Poop…Here’s Caga Tió
As if one pooping holiday figure weren’t enough, there’s also Caga Tió. He’s a wooden log with a cute face, a red Catalan cap, and spindly legs. And instead of Santa Claus, it’s Caga Tió who comes bearing gifts for children—in his own special way.
In early December, families ‘find’ Caga Tió during a trip to the woods and bring him home. Each night leading up to Christmas, the children leave him candies, fruits, and other treats—much like leaving cookies and milk for Santa. As Christmas nears, a blanket is placed over Caga Tió’s backside and parents secretly place small gifts underneath.
But Christmas Eve is when things get really interesting. The final step of the tradition is for children to beat Caga Tió with a stick while singing this little ditty (translated from Catalan):
Poop, Log
Christmas Log
Don’t poop sardines
They are too salty
Poop nougats
They are much better
If the children were good that year, Caga Tió “poops” nougats and other sweets. But if the children were naughty, they might get the dreaded sardines.
Caga Tió’s origins date back to Pagan times when Catalans would set a large tree trunk on fire to celebrate the Winter Solstice. How the tradition morphed into a pooping log is a bit murky.
Like the caganer, Caga Tió can be found in Christmas markets, homes, and shops throughout Barcelona.
Eat Some Grapes: A New Year’s Tradition
After all the fun of pooping logs and nativity figures, Catalans wrap up the year with a simpler tradition: eating twelve grapes at midnight on New Year’s Eve. This custom is practiced throughout Spain and is said to bring good fortune for the year ahead.
At the final 12 seconds of the year, revelers eat one grape for each second, reflecting on the significance of each month in the coming year. This is typically done with family and friends, or at large gatherings. Legend has it that you must finish all 12 grapes before the clock strikes midnight to secure your good luck.
Unlike Caga Tió and the caganer, this tradition is relatively new. It started around 1900 and gained popularity in 1909 when a surplus of grapes prompted farmers to promote the custom. Today, you’ll find grapes, usually white, sold in 12-packs at grocery stores throughout December.
Keep the Party Going with Three Kings Day
As New Year’s comes and goes, you may think the holidays are over. But wait! There’s one more day to celebrate - Three King’s Day, on January 6th. This is the day that children all over Spain wait for with eager participation.
In Barcelona, the Three Kings arrive by sea on the evening of January 5th. They are welcomed by the Mayor who gives them a key to the city so they can unlock the doors to all of the houses and leave gifts. Elaborate parades honoring the Three Kings are held in the city center and surrounding neighborhoods.
The next morning, the children open the presents delivered by the Three Kings. And family and friends gather together to eat, drink, and celebrate. A centerpiece of the meal is the Roscon de Reyes, a circular cake topped with sugar and dried fruits. Inside, a small figurine is often hidden. The person who finds the figurine in their piece of cake is said to enjoy good luck.
A Glimpse into Catalonia’s Holiday Spirit
Barcelona’s holiday traditions are equal parts quirky, charming, and steeped in history. From pooping figures to lucky grapes, these customs showcase the unique spirit of Catalonia.
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Elizabeth Pinkerton resides in Barcelona, Spain. She is a native of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and called the San Francisco Bay Area home for many years. She is CEO of VidaNova Barcelona which provides expat advice and guidance for Americans moving to Spain.
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